Budapest
the view from the window this morning
Well Hungary has our seal of approval (all Hungarians say yay) as does the Hilton, because it’s luxurious inside, despite the extremely unsympathetic nature of the architecture. The Hilton is a Sydney toaster-esque building built on top of a medieval monastery. These walls from the middle ages remain and I think there’s some excavations preserved but they’re closed right now.
Hilton’s u-g-l-y design was approved because the communist government needed a place for foreign businessman that was up to Western standards but couldn’t afford to build one themselves.
Everywhere we went today the various stages of Hungarian history were writ plain. Walking around here you get a feeling of a country trying to encapsulate its history and make sense of it. We had a guided tour of the castle district today with a wonderfully knowledgeable history/language teacher. What a lot of info we got for our money, and he was our personal tour guide thanks to a cold winter and the chaos created by the airport closures, which a local businessman tells me, has hit them hard here , tourism-wise.
Thanks to wars and communist-rule these are the only two medieval buildings remaining intact in this area. The white one on the right is the place where we had dinner last night – aren’t we clever little tourists.
Our tour started around noon after the changing of the guard outside the President’s Residence. The President is figure-head (& doesn’t live there anymore).
Power lies with the Prime Minister and Parliament. The houses of Parliament below are beautiful and look a bit like Westminster Abbey (on which they were modelled). As you can see some weather came in overnight and the day was pretty foggy all day.
Across the square from the President's residence is the Royal Palace. No aristocracy in Hungary thanks to the Russians so it now houses a gallery, museum and library entered through these gates (18th or 19th century) that symbolise the ancient division between royal and common. In the Middle Ages 1/3 of the district inside the castle walls was for royalty and the other 2/3 (beyond the gates) were commoners, merchants, artisans, fisherman etc.
They are slowly uncovering their history (or what history survived the many and various wars) but there’s not a lot of money around of archaeology so their ancient remains look like this
When the Ottoman Empire took power they simply (bit like the practical Romans in that regard), WWI & WWII had an impact not only on the buildings that were utterly destroyed but on some that survived. Much has been repaired some, like the shrapnel marks below is left ‘as a reminder’ of a world gone mad.
Consequently much of what we saw today represents a mammoth rebuilding effort, all done with an aim to replicate what has been lost. this chapel is a composite of ages. The medieval footings were unearthed as part of building works, the walls are from a later it’s sealed but still has no roof.
In the days when royals lived in their part of the castle they had the Royal guard to defend themselves but the poor old commoners were left to defend themselves. Each group had responsibility for a bastion. Here is the Fisherman’s Bastion, the defensive bit is the round bit poking out of the edge of the castle wall.
The fish were caught down in the Danube and hauled up the hill to the castle.
This was once the fisherman’s market
The yurt-shape is a throw-back to Mongol part of Hungarian history. Our tour guide wore us out! 90 mins of non-stop talking meant 90 mins of non-stop info so, with heads ready to explode out through our eyeballs we escaped to our lovely room for some downtime and a late lunch.
After lunch I visited Mathias Church (the bloke in the baseball cap is our guide).
and explored the other end of the castle to the gate
and into the park outside the castle wall